Via Tolosana: The longwalker's packing list

I have been practice-packing for months. It can only mean one thing – my next long walk in France is long overdue. I’ve booked it and July approaches. In preparation I have reviewed my Via Tolosana packing list, and have come up with a list of items I’m happy with for today. It might change tomorrow, and my inclination always seems to be to add more, rather than subtract. The just-in-case syndrome.

I’ve read somewhere, that you can walk with only one spare change of clothes, and that all the small things, first aid kits etc and things you don’t absolutely use every day, can be bought if you need them. I agree with this for clothes, but for first aid, I think it is handy to have it with you. I attempt to keep my packing to what for me are (mostly) the bare essentials. Whilst this is a long list, many things don’t take up much room.

Ideally, you don’t want anything in your pack that you’re not using every day. But on the other hand, if you’re walking for 60 days, you may want to go out to dinner in a dress one night instead of your daggy walking clothes. So I compromise with finding the lightest/most compact version of anything I won’t use every day ie. an umbrella.

If you find you have to take everything out to re-pack every morning, it is actually a good thing, because it means you’re using everything in your pack.

Pack/Accessories

Backpack – North Face Terra 30 litre (purchased in 2008)
Pack cover (came with the pack)
St Jacques shell
Walking sticks (I didn’t use these, however the going is easier with them – other people loaned me theirs to try out)
Aluminium clips
Plastic bags (or pack liner or large zip-lock bags – for the 2-3 days you may walk in heavy rain, plastic bags are plenty – especially if you have a pack cover – which I’d highly recommend)
Waterproof bags (for technology/passport/phone) – Kathmandu
Water bottles (Take a drink bottle plus buy 1.5 litre plastic one when you’re there)
Swiss Army knife (make sure you pack it in the bag that gets put under the plane otherwise it will be confiscated)
Money belt (It can come in handy on planes and trains and where you feel security is not great, but mostly I didn’t need it along the way)
Compass (didn’t use it but it may be useful one day)
Compact umbrella (IsoToner make tiny ones that weigh only 250g)

Although my pack is heavy (even without anything in it), I really like it for its compact design and comfort. All straps are adjustable, and there are great outside zipped and open pockets to store things for easy access. I love the top ‘lid’ which was great for carrying the day’s quiche or flat peach and it has a zipped section inside, so I could keep my pocket-knife and small things like salt/pepper and the compass in case. You won’t walk using an umbrella, but I found when looking around towns at the end of a day of walking, it is very uncomfortable walking around in the rain – handy to have a tiny umbrella.

Shoes

Hiking boots – Salamon
After hours light sandals (I couldn’t successfully walk on cobblestones in flip-flops) – Teva
Flip-flops (for shower) – Havianas

Clothes

1 waterproof jacket – Kathmandu
1 inner jacket shell/lightweight polo fleece – Kathmandu
2 t shirts – Bonds
2 long sleeve t-shirts – Bonds
2 pairs long pants/shorts (depending what you are comfortable in) – Kathmandu
3 bras
3 pairs underpants
2 pairs socks (thick Wool/synthetic blend hiking socks)
1 dress (light-weight and compact for evenings)
1 pair leggings
Pyjamas
Hat
Lightweight shawl
Bathers/swimmers/togs – whatever you call ’em. Yes there are some swimming pools.

Washing/Sleeping

Sleeping sheet
Quick dry towel
Stretchy clothes line
5 pegs
Eye/sleep mask
Ear plugs (if you need them)

If you stay mostly in pilgrim accommodation – gites or Chambre d’hotes, pillows and blankets are mostly provided, so I found carrying a sleeping bag was unnecessary, and it freed up a lot of space when I posted it home.

Paper/Technology

Journal
Morning pages (A4 notebooks if you’re a writer)
Miam miam dodo (Food and Accommodation guide)
Phone (and charger & extra battery)
Electrical adapter
Pencil case – small round-blade scissors, small glue stick, pens for journalling
Purse
Passport/plane ticket
Pilgrim credential
French phrasebook

Being a writer, I pack paper, and it weighs a lot. But this is the price I pay for being able to write about my trip in great detail while I’m going, and I’m not about to give it up. Same goes for scissors and glue stick. I stick all my tickets etc into my journal as I go, and also prepare town maps and information about the route before I leave and stick it into my journal as I get to each place. It makes a beautiful record of the trip and I figure I’ll be wanting to remember my trips when I’m 90 and in a nursing home.

Encouraged by Alissa Duke and her gorgeous sketches, this time I’m going to try water-colour sketching – more to carry, but more memories!

Toiletries/First Aid

The other area I don’t economise on is toiletries. I like carrying lotions and potions in the smallest sizes available, because at the end of long day of walking, after I’ve showered, I like to have a little tube of peppermint foot balm at my disposal or some arnica creme to massage my legs. OK, I might only use the paw-paw ointment once or twice, but I’d rather have it than not. A little block of ‘friction block’ instead of lots of bandaids for feet is a must that was loaned to me by my friend Isabel. I only used it once, but it worked by stopping a blister coming, and I was so glad I had it.

I also carried a little portion of Salvital last time, and I was so glad I did on the hot days.

Soap (in a mesh bag you can peg to the washing line to dry overnight. Wash yourself and your clothes with it)
Shampoo
Toothbrush/paste
Baume de St Bernard (muscle liniment)
PawPaw creme (these come in mini red containers)
Jojoba oil (JoJoba make mini travel sized bottles)
moisturiser/aloe vera (mini version)
Sunscreen (Avene make a cute-sized tube)
Nivea Lip balm
First aid kit (small)
Bandaid – or any other ‘friction block’ blister stopper – excellent (so much better than any sticking plasters and it really works, but difficult to find in Australia)
Large safety pins
Small amount of real wool – excellent for shoving between your toes to prevent blisters
Salvital
Tampons/pads – can’t quite bring myself to go on the pill just to walk, but it would certainly make it easier from a packing perspective
Toilet paper – wind your own without the cardboard tube

What not to take

Sleeping bag (I found I didn’t use it on the Via Tolosana – may yet be proved wrong this time)
SLR camera (still deciding on this) and charger
Heavy sandals – don’t take Keens unless you’re walking in them (they’re too heavy to carry for after hours wear)
iPad (next time I won’t try to blog while on the trip)

Other useful notes

Space for food

Leave enough space in your backpack to pack the food you need each day. Sometimes you might have to stock up for over 24 hours worth on the Via Tolosana as there are not always epiceries/boulangeries in the smaller towns. Ask about the provisions of food in the towns ahead from Office de Tourisme/hostelliers you stay with. Other pilgrims are a also a good source of info about this. Miam Miam Dodo is a good resource, but may not be up-to-date or accurate.

Use space on the outside of your pack

Use large safety pins to dry your socks on the outside of your pack if they don’t dry overnight.
Buy aluminium clips to clip drink bottles and other extras to the outside of your pack
I carried two posters in a post-pack carton strapped on the outside of my pack for the last 6 days – not recommended, but it is possible for those must-have souvenirs.