La chapelle Sainte Marie-Madeleine, Monsupt sits atop a 600m high volcanic cone on the ancient Celtic Bolene route linking Lyon and Aquitaine. As I left Montbrison on the GR 765 earlier in the day, the sun was climbing. It was still dewy under foot. Billowy clouds were gathering. I worried that I’d not make Marols, 22kms away, without getting wet, let alone have time to sketch. But I did sketch. The bells! The bells!